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Glycolic Acid: A User's Guide
For your skin to reap the full benefits of a glycolic acid product, it must be used correctly, says Dr. Clark. Here's how to choose and use these products, whether you get them from the corner drugstore or a dermatologist.
Test the waters. Try an over the counter product before consulting a dermatologist, suggests Dr. Price. You may find that using a lower percentage of glycolic acid will give you the results you want.
Get the right formulation for your skin. Both over the counter and dermatologist's office glycolic acid products come in creams, gels, and liquids (sometimes called serums). Generally speaking, people with dry skin prefer cream formulations, while those with thicker, oilier
skin prefer the gels or the serums, says Dr. Perricone.
Test before you treat.Using glycolic acid isn't without its drawbacks: It can cause some people's skin to sting, itch, or, in rare cases, break out in a rash. So take a skin sensitivity test before using glycolic acid for the first time, says Dr. Clark. Rub a small amount of the product on the inside of your elbow every day for a week. If there's no redness or irritation in this time, chances are that the glycolic acid won't overly irritate the skin on your face, she says. If you do experience irritation, Dr. Clark suggests that you try using the product only every other or every third day. If that doesn't work, try a lower concentration.
Apply it at night. After you apply glycolic acid, it takes at least 15 minutes for it to penetrate the skin. So if you have only minutes to spend on your morning skin care routine, smooth on your product before bed, suggests Dr. Clark. Applying moisturizer or makeup immediately after glycolic acid can reduce its effectiveness, she says. Be sure to avoid getting glycolic acid products in or around your eyes.
Use sunscreen. The use of glycolic acid products can make skin more sensitive to the sun than it was before. So without fail, apply a sunscreen with a sun protection factor (SPF) of at least 15 before going out for the day, says Dr. Fusco. Or use one of the many moisturizers or foundations that contain SPF 15 sunscreen.
Quit if your skin cries "ouch!" Stop using glycolic acid immediately if your skin becomes intensely red, irritated, or inflamed, says Dr. Clark. While such severe reactions are rare, they do occur, especially in women with sensitive skin.
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