Get Glowing with Glycolic Acid Derived from sugarcane, glycolic acid is the most common AHA in over the counter anti aging products. It's also the most effective, says Sheryl Clark, M.D., a dermatologist in New York City. Research has shown that the chemicals in glycolic acid slough off, or exfoliate, the buildup of dead cells on the skin's top layer. "Removing these dead cells makes skin look smoother and gives it a glow," says Francesca J. Fusco, M.D., a dermatologist in New York City. The average drugstore glycolic acid product costs around $10. But expect to pay $20 or more sometimes much more for the ritzier glycolic acid products offered by major cosmetics companies. At the cosmetics counter. Most over the counter glycolic acid products contain less than 10 percent glycolic acid. These low concentrations won't do a thing for lines and wrinkles, say experts. But some women who use these products like the way they make their skin look smoother and fresher. Research suggests that at concen¬ trations of 10 percent or higher, glycolic acid may stimulate the formation of collagen, the connective tissue in the skin's second layer (the dermis) that gives skin its youthful plumpness and strength. A few over the counter products, such as the Alpha Hydrox and Aqua Glycolic lines, do contain 10 percent glycolic acid. Glycolic acid products are easy to use. Once a day. you simply apply two to three pea size amounts to the clean, dry skin of your face and neck, says Dr. Clark. At the dermatologist's office. If you're sporting a few faint lines, consider seeing a dermatologist, who can offer a variety of products that can contain up to 25 percent glycolic acid. "It's clear that higher concentrations of glycolic acid 12 percent and above are more likely to benefit aging skin," says Dr. Price. Expect to pay from $10 to $60, depending on the product line and how much glycolic acid it contains. The advantage of going to a dermatologist is that she can examine your skin and recommend the concentration of glycolic acid that's right for you. If you have dry or sensitive skin, she may recommend using a product formulated with 8 percent glycolic acid, says Dr. Clark. Then in a month or so, after your skin adjusts, she may jump you to a higher percentage. Oily skin can tolerate higher concentrations of glycolic acid, she says. So a dermatologist may recommend, right off the bat, a gel or oil free cream that contains 10 to 20 percent glycolic acid. You use doctor's office glycolic acid products the same way as the over the counter variety, says Dr. Clark. You're likely to see a noticeable difference in your skin tone within 2 weeks of the first application. If these products are going to minimize fine lines, expect to wait at least 3 months, says Nicholas V. Perricone, M.D., associate clinical professor of dermatology at the Yale University School of Medicine. 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